Best of Kauai

We’re back from Kauai. I’m pleased to report that it’s just as lovely as when we were there on our honeymoon, five years ago. Instead of trying to recount the entire week, I’ll just offer our personal best of Kauai:

Best Place We Stayed on the North Shore – Alii Kai I (Building 3) in Princeville
This condo was above the cliffs east of Hanalei Bay. Even though it was over a hundred feet down to the ocean, the waves were clearly audible, in much the same way a passing freight train is audible. (The winter is not the best time to go swimming on the north shore.) We could see the ocean from Bali Hai to the Kilauea lighthouse, which would be relevant one night. Read on.

Best Place We Stayed on the South Shore – Gloria’s Spouting Horn B&B
We were in the same room as when we honeymooned, so I may be biased. Still beautiful, still with an incredible location on the beach. A new treat this time was seeing whale spouts from the B&B.

Best Day of Snorkeling – PK’s Beach in the morning, Beach House in the afternoon
At PK’s, we saw four sea turtles, two of which were swimming right in front of us. At Beach House, there were more fish and an eel.

Honorable Mention - Poipu Beach Park
We were surrounded by schools of chubs, convict fish, and yellow-tailed tangs.

Best Unscripted, Unrepeatable Moment – a storm rolling in across the ocean
Returning from dinner our last night on the north shore, we noticed a few flashes of lightning. From our condo, we saw lightning on 120 degrees of the ocean horizon. For half an hour, we watched almost continuous lightning, in the clouds and striking the ocean, come closer. The air was perfectly still as the storm approached, the wind kicking up only 30 seconds before a hard rain started.

Most Blissful Ignorance – a storm rolling in across the ocean
The storm we happily observed from our beachfront room was one of the strongest non-hurricanes Kauai has had in years. There were tornado/waterspout warnings for most of the island. Winds caused such damage at the Allerton Gardens across the street from Gloria’s that the botanical park was being closed to the public for repairs. Luckily, we learned all this the next day, so it did not compromise our enjoyment of the storm.

Best Mercury Exposure – Seared tuna at Hanalei Dolphin
In 1999, I thought it was the best piece of meat I’d tasted. Since then, I’ve eaten some delicious former animals, but this one still leads the pack (flock, herd, school, etc). A subtle marinade, seared on the outside, cold sashimi on the inside – beyond fish to the sublime.

Best Dessert – the chocolate-filled flour-less brownie thing at Roy’s
This was somewhat complicated by the Beach House Restaurant serving almost the same dessert, but Roy’s takes the prize with better presentation.

Best Place to be Overdressed – the Kalalau Trail
The Kalalau Trail runs 11 miles down Kauai’s rugged Na Pali coast. The first two miles are open for day hikers; beyond that, you need a camping permit and a plan to stay overnight. The trail offers incredible views of land, sea, and vegetation that we just don’t see in The Holler. The path is relatively steep at points, comprised of slick mud at others, and both simultaneously in a few choice locations. While many of our fellow hikers wore flip-flops or heel-less slip-on jobs, we chose shoes (with laces, no less). I guess we’re just old, with an overdeveloped aversion to sliding to our doom.

Best Animal – wild chickens
A guidebook at Gloria’s said that these were really “Polynesian jungle fowl,” but they’ll always be wild chickens to us. They range everywhere, particularly on the south shore. Towards the end of our trip, we actually saw a hen with her brood of eight chicks. So cute, and then we saw a minor miracle when all eight of them disappeared under her chest and slightly spread wings. You’d never know they were there unless you knelt down and noticed that this hen had 16 tiny extra legs. So now we know what Jesus was talking about.

Most Alone – Alakai Swamp Trail
From the top of Waimea Canyon, a trail runs for roughly a mile along the top of Kalalau Valley, looking 4,000 feet down to the Na Pali coast. The trail then turns east for three miles into a highland wetland. The trail ended with a mile of boardwalk through the swamp, to a point looking down onto Hanalei on the north shore. Though no more than ten miles away, there is no road directly from the west to north shore, so our view of Princeville was some 2-1/2 hours' drive away. On our five hours of hiking, we saw three other hikers.

(Um, yeah, we did fly for over 12 hours, drive a couple more, and hike a few miles to get to a swamp. Isn’t that why everybody goes to Hawaii?)

Best Reading – The Purpose Driven Life, by Rick Warren
Granted, not a traditional beach book, but Kerry and I began this 40-day study while on vacation. We're just a quarter of the way through, but I've been impressed. Warren does a wonderful job of synthesizing various themes from across the Bible and presenting them in a personalized way, emphasizing their relevance to the reader.

Best Guidebook – The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook: Kauai Revealed
Full of good advice; never steered us wrong. The same was true of an earlier edition in 1999. Heartily recommended for all y’all heading to Kauai.

Honorable Mention – Snorkel Kauai
As one might reasonably expect, this has much more info about snorkeling. Full of details about entry points, channels, what sea life to look for, etc.